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25 Shell Roll Hem For shell roll hems, use the roll hemmer (2 red lines). The material with knitted fabric is inserted in the spiral guide tongue a a for roll hemming. The zigzag stitch bridges the entire seam. Tight top thread tension and large stitch length produce the shell-type effect. This shell roll liein is used mainly for edging knitted (roods. 48 Braiding Insert a soft cord in the guide hole of the zigzag embroidering foot, which is marked by one red line on its shank, and stitch or embroider over with zigzag stitches. Use mercerized thread 6U/2 or GO/2. A variety of effects can be obtained with this type of stitch. Colour thread, coloured cord, a number of adjacent seams etc. will enhance the effect. FU. 26 i 41) THREAD CUTTER SI) The preaser foot clamping lever on the BERNINA sewing machine at a cimvenient ¡¡pot is provided with a sharp edt;e to be used as thread cutter. (See illustration.) This device helps save time especially when scissors m e not in reach of hands. Kitf. 26 c Buttonhole Sewing automatic There are three kinds of buttonholes: A) the ordinary buttonhole B) the buttonhole with cord inlay C) the raised buttonhole A. The ordinary buttonhole This is sewn with normal lower thread tension, but with special threading of the bobbin case (see Pig. 27). The sewing of the buttonhole with the new buttonhole device is effected ivitkout turning the cloth round. The buttonhole can be sewn either step by Htep, the machine being stopped after each operation, or in one working operation, i. e. without interrupting the various working stages. It will be well to learn setomg buttonholes step by step. After a little time you will naturally sew the whole buttonhole in one working operation. 51 The threading of the bottom thread when sewing buttonholes automatically An increased tension of the bottom thread produces best results when sewing buttonholes automatically. To get thin higher bottom thread tension without changing the lower tension itself, which ¡a correct for normal sewing, a hole was drilled through the finger of the bobbin case through which the bottom thread has to be threaded (see adjoining illustration). Through this measure the bottom thread tension is slightly increased and the hook will take less thread from the bobbin which is correct for good buttonhole sewing. For normal sewing the bobbin case is threaded as explained in the instruction booklet on page 17. KJ. MO * Pig. «7» 52 0 © Lever (for actuating the locking catch) Stitch-length lever FJg For »awing buttonholaa, the machina la adjutiad a a follow*: 1. Insert buttonhole presser foot. 2. Peed-change knob 17 (Pig.2, page 6) must stand at “sewing”. 3. Push lever a (Fig. 28 and 29) to the back in the direction of the arrow, in order that it comes into the position shown in Fig. 30. In this way the locking catch c (Pig. 30), which determines the width of stitch for the bead and for the lock, comes into its working position. Fit. 2« -c»£&ged (zig-zug liialk) Fi*. 32 Buttonhole device engaged (buttonhole murk) With thumb and forefinger, the length lever 16 (Fig. S3) is pressed as possible towards the machine direction of the arrow. stitch as far in the 55 FIk. 34 Then turn the ball-shaped end clockwise until the buttonhole mark appears at the top. 50 F>». ss Now let the end go loose and push it in the direction of the backward stitch (direction of the arrow) as far as possible upwards (Fig. 35). 36 g, 6. After the stop c (Fig. 30) has been brought into the working position by moving the lever a, take hold of the lower part 12 a of the knob 12, draw it to the front cud, swiveling it in such a way that the pawl c comes to lie against the stop pin I. On the scale the number 1.5 must, stand approximately opposite tht! mark b. Fin. 37 6. Setting the lever 13 (Fig. 37). This lever is turned so far to the left until the white mark at its upper end lies opposite the white mark of the zig-zag lever 12 (Fig. 37). In this way the machine is set for buttonhole sewing. 57 Th* ttsp by »lap sawing of №• buttonhole i* now otfactod as follows: 1. Sewing the lefthand bead. Start the machine, then the lefthand bead is sewn in backward stitch. A scale on the buttonhole presser foot serves for determining the length of the buttonhole. After the desired length of bead has been reached, stop the machine. Always take care that the needle is then up. 2. Sewing the first end stitches. For this purpose take hold of the zig-zag lever 12a, give it a strong push to the left until it comes against stop II (Fig. 88). Then sew a few end stitches after that, stop the machine again and set the needle up. 3. Sewing the righthand bead. Bring the zig-zag lever 12 a ba...

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