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The cut-off stock remains on the table and is not touched until the saw blade has stopped, unless it is a large piece allowing safe removal. When ripping boards longer than three feet, use a work support at the rear of the saw to keep the workpiece from falling off the saw table. 2. If the ripped work is less than 4 inches wide, a push stick should always be used to complete the feed, as shown in Fig. 41. The push stick can easily be made from scrap material as explained in the section Fig. 41 “CONSTRUCTING A PUSH STICK.” Fig. 39A A C B B Fig. 39B A Fig. 40 20 3. Ripping narrow pieces can be dangerous if not done carefully. Narrow pieces usually cannot be cut with the guard in position. If the workpiece is short enough, use a pushboard. When ripping material under 2 inches in width, a flat pushboard is a valuable accessory since ordinary type sticks may interfere with the blade guard. When using a pushboard, the width of the pushboard must be added to the width of the rip fence position setting. A flat pushboard can be constructed as shown in Fig. 43 and should be used as shown in Fig. 42 NOTE: Some special operations (when using the moulding cutterhead) require the addition of an auxiliary wood facing to the fence, as explained in the section “USING AUXILIARY WOOD FACING ON THE RIP FENCE” and use of a push stick. Fig. 42 Fig. 43 USING AUXILIARY WOOD FACING ON RIP FENCE Wood facings (A) Fig. 43A are necessary on some special operations to one or both sides of the rip fence. The wood facing is attached to the fence with screws through the holes in the fence. Most work will require a 3/4 " stock, although an occasional job may require 1" facing. ACCESSORY DADO CUTTERHEAD NOTE: THE MAXIMUM WIDTH DADO CUT FOR THIS SAW IS 1/2 INCH. A Fig. 43A A B THE BLADE GUARD AND SPLITTER ASSEMBLY CANNOT BE USED WHEN DADOING. IT MUST BE REMOVED. Fig. 44 Before dadoing, loosen wing nut (A) Fig. 44 and take off the blade guard and splitter assembly (B). Keep assembly handy to replace it after dadoing. 21 1. Dadoing is cutting a rabbet or wide groove into the work. Most dado head sets are made up of two outside saws and four or five inside cutters, (Fig. 44A). Various combinations of saws and cutters are used to cut grooves from 1/8” to 13/16” for use in shelving, making joints, tenoning, grooving, etc. The cutters are heavily swaged and must be arranged so that this heavy portion falls in the gullets of the outside saws, as shown in Fig. 45. The saw and cutter overlap is shown in Fig. 46, (A) being the outside saw, (B) an inside cutter, and (C) a paper washer or washers, used as needed to control the exact width of groove. A 1/4” groove is cut by using the two outside saws. The teeth of the saws should be positioned so that the raker on one saw is beside the cutting teeth on the other saw. 2. Attach the dado head set (D) Fig. 47, to the saw arbor. NOTE: THE OUTSIDE ARBOR FLANGE CAN NOT BE USED WITH THE DADO HEAD SET, TIGHTEN THE ARBOR NUT AGAINST THE DADO HEAD SET BODY. DO NOT LOSE THE OUTSIDE ARBOR FLANGE. IT WILL BE NEEDED WHEN REATTACHING A BLADE TO THE ARBOR. THE DADO HEAD SET TABLE INSERT (E) FIG. 47, MUST BE USED IN PLACE OF THE STANDARD TABLE INSERT. THIS IS AVAILABLE AS A SERVICE PART THROUGH A BLACK & DECKER SERVICE CENTER. THE BLADE GUARD AND SPLITTER ASSEMBLY CANNOT BE USED WHEN DADOING AND MUST BE REMOVED OR SWUNG TO THE REAR OF THE SAW. AUXILIARY JIGS, FIXTURES, PUSH STICKS AND FEATHER BOARDS SHOULD ALSO BE USED. 3. Fig. 48, shows a typical dado operation using the miter gauge as a guide. NEVER USE THE DADO HEAD IN A BEVEL POSITION. ALWAYS INSTALL BLADE GUARD AFTER OPERATION IS COMPLETED. Fig. 44A Fig. 45 Fig. 46 A B C D E Fig. 47 Fig. 48 22 CONSTRUCTING A PUSH STICK When ripping work less than 4 inches wide, use a push stick to complete the feed The push stick can easily be made from scrap material by following the pattern shown. PUSH STICK MAKE FROM 1/2" OR 3/4" WOOD OR THICKNESS LESS THAN WIDTH OF MATERIAL TO BE CUT CUT OFF HERE TO PUSH 1/4" WOOD CUT OFF HERE TO PUSH 1/2" WOOD NOTCH TO HELP PREVENT HAND FROM SLIPPING 1/2" SQUARES 23 CONSTRUCTING A FEATHERBOARD Fig. 49 illustrates the dimensions for making a typical featherboard. Make the featherboard from a straight piece of wood that is free of knots and cracks. Featherboards are used to keep the work in contact with the fence and table and to help prevent kickbacks. Clamp the featherboards to the fence and table so that the leading edge of the featherboards will support the workpiece until the cut is complete. Use featherboards for all non “thru-sawing” operations where the guard and spreader assembly must be removed (see Fig. 50). Always replace the guard and spreader assembly when the non thru-sawing operation is completed. Kerf should be about 1/4" apart. Fig. 49 Fig. 50 24 MAINTENANCE KEEP MACHINE CLEAN Periodically blow out all air passages with dry compressed air. All plastic parts should be cleaned with a soft damp cloth. NEVER use solvents to clean pla...