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2. Clean the filter in nonflammable solvent. Inspect the fuel tank filter and the connector O-ring. Replace them if damaged. 3. Reinstall the filter and hose connector in the fuel tank. Tighten the hose connector securely. SERVICING YOUR OUTBOARD MOTOR Recoil Starter Rope Inspection Anode Replacement Always keep the emergency starter rope on the boat in case the recoil starter rope fails. Replace the anodes when they have been reduced to about half their original size, or if they are crumbling. RECOIL STARTER ROPE Inspect the recoil starter rope, and replace it if it becomes frayed. ANODES ANODE (G and T types only) The anodes are located on each side of the gearcase and the stern bracket (G and T types only). They are made of a sacrificial material that helps to protect the outboard motor from corrosion. Painting or coating the anodes will def eat their purpose and will lead to rust and corrosion damage to the outboard motor. The anodes must be exposed to the water in order to protect the outboard motor. SERVICING YOUR OUTBOARD MOTOR Propeller Replacement Before replacing the propeller, remove the clip from the engine stop switch to prevent any possibility of the engine being started while you are working with the propeller. The propeller blades may have sharp edges, so wear heavy gloves to protect your hands. Operating the outboard motor at higher altitudes will reduce available power. This may require decreasing the propeller pitch to maintain correct engine RPM. Removal COTTER PIN Remove the cotter pin, unscrew the castle nut, remove the washer, then remove the propeller and thrust washer. Installation THRUST WASHER COTTER PIN PLAIN WASHER CASTLE NUT MARINE GREASE PROPELLER TOWARD GEAR CASE Install the propeller in the reverse order of removal. Install the thrust washer with the grooved side toward the gear case. Use a genuine Honda cotter pin. STORAGE PREPARATION STORAGE PREPARATION Cleaning and Flushing Thoroughly clean and flush the outboard motor with fresh water after operation in dirty water or salt water. Touch up any damaged paint, and coat areas that may rust with Honda Corrosion Inhibitor, or equivalent. Lubricate controls with a silicone spray lubricant. Cleaning Wash the outside of the outboard motor with clean, fresh water to remove mud, salt, seaweed, etc. Disengage the emergency engine stop switch clip from the engine stop switch, and pull the recoil starter rope several times to expel any water remaining in the water pump. Flushing With the Honda Garden Hose Adapter (optional equipment) 1. Unlatch the engine cover latch and remove the engine cover (p. 69 ), and install the garden hose adapter. 2. Attach a garden hose from a fresh water faucet to the garden hose adapter. 3. Turn on the fresh water supply, and verify that there is good water pressure at the outboard motor. 4. Flush the engine with fresh water for at least 10 minutes. Do not run the engine. STORAGE GARDEN HOSE ADAPTER After flushing, remove the garden hose adapter, reinstall the engine cover. STORAGE Flushing Without the Honda Garden Hose Adapter It is necessary to run the engine during the flushing procedure. For safety, remove the propeller from the outboard motor (p. 84 ). ANTIVENTILATION PLATE 1. Place a container under the outboard motor, and fill it with clean, fresh water. The water level must be at least 2 inches above the antiventilation plate. Running the engine without good water circulation can cause overheating and water pump damage. Damage caused by running the outboard motor without sufficient cooling water is not covered by the Distributor’s Limited Warranty. 2. Start the engine and run in the N (neutral) position at low speed for at least 10 minutes. 3. After flushing, stop the engine, remove the water container, and reinstall the propeller (p. 84 ). STORAGE Fuel Gasoline will oxidize and deteriorate in storage. Old gasoline will cause hard starting, and it leaves gum deposits that clog the fuel system. If the gasoline in your fuel tank and carburetor deteriorates during storage, you may need to have the carburetor and other fuel system components serviced or replaced. The length of time that gasoline can be left in your fuel tank and carburetor without causing functional problems will vary with such factors as gasoline blend, your storage temperatures, and whether the fuel tank is partially or completely filled. The air in a partially filled fuel tank promotes fuel deterioration. Very warm storage temperatures accelerate fuel deterioration. Fuel deterioration problems may occur within a few months, or even less if the gasoline was not fresh when you filled the fuel tank. You can extend fuel storage life by adding a gasoline stabilizer that is formulated for that purpose, or you can avoid fuel deterioration problems by draining all the fuel from the fuel tank and carburetor. Adding a Fuel Stabilizer When adding a fuel stabilizer, fill the fuel tank with fresh gasoline. If only partially filled, air in the t...
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