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6 When sewing is finished, cut the thread. • For details, refer to “Cutting the thread” (page 55). ¦ Changing the needle position The needle position used as the baseline is different for the straight stitch (left needle position) and the straight stitch (center needle position). 1 2 1 Straight stitch (left needle position) 2 Straight stitch (center needle position) When the stitch width of the straight stitch (left needle position) is set to its standard setting (0.0 mm), the distance from the needle position to the right side of the presser foot is 12 mm (1/2 inch). If the stitch width is changed (between 0 and 7 mm (1/4 inch)), the needle position will also change. By changing the stitch width and sewing with the right side of the presser foot aligned with the edge of the fabric, a seam allowance can be sewn with a fixed width. 1 0.0 2.0 5.5 7.0 3 4 56 2 1 Stitch width 2 Distance from the needle position to the right side of the presser foot 3 12.0 mm (1/2 inch) 4 10.0 mm (3/8 inch) 5 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) 6 5.0 mm (3/16 inch) • For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch width” (page 57). 3 Basic Stitching 73 S3_brotherE.book Page 74 Wednesday, February 12, 2003 11:49 AM UTILITY STITCHES Blind Hem Stitching Secure the bottoms of skirts and pants with a blind hem. Two stitches are available for blind hem stitching. Stitch Name Pattern Application Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] Presser Foot Auto Manual Auto Manual Blind hem stitch 17 Blind hem stitching on mediumweight fabrics 0.0 (0) 3< – 3> 2.0 (1/16) 1.0–3.5 (1/16–1/8) R 18 Blind hem stitching on stretch fabrics 0.0 (0) 3< – 3> 2.0 (1/16) 1.0–3.5 (1/16–1/8) R Sew a blind hem according to the following procedure. 1 Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the hem, and then baste it about 5 mm (3/16 inch) from the edge of the fabric. 4 2 1 3 1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Basting stitching 3 Desired edge of hem 4 5 mm (3/16 inch) 2 Fold back the fabric along the basting, and then position the fabric with the wrong side facing up. 2 1 1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Basting 3 Attach blind hem foot “R”. R • For details, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41). 4 Select a stitch. • For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 66). 5 Position the fabric with the edge of the folded hem against the guide of the presser foot, and then lower the presser foot lever. 12R 3 1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Fold of hem 3 Guide 74 S3_brotherE.book Page 75 Wednesday, February 12, 2003 11:49 AM 6 Adjust the stitch width until the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem. R 1 1 Needle drop point 1 + – 1 Stitch width ¦ If the needle catches too much of the hem fold The needle is too far to the left. Press (of the arrow keys) to decrease the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem. 1 1Wrong side of fabric 2Right side of fabric 2 ¦ If the needle does not catch the hem fold The needle is too far to the right. Press (of the arrow keys) to increase the stitch width so that the needle slightly catches the fold of the hem. 12 1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Right side of fabric • For details on changing the stitch width, refer to “Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length” (page 57). 7 Sew with the fold of the hem against the presser foot guide. 8 Remove the basting stitching. 3 12 1 Wrong side of fabric 2 Right side of fabric Blind Hem Stitching 75 S3_brotherE.book Page 76 Wednesday, February 12, 2003 11:49 AM UTILITY STITCHES Buttonhole Stitching Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on. Eleven stitches are available for sewing on buttons and one-step buttonholes. Stitch Name Pattern Application Stitch Width [mm (inch.)] Stitch Length [mm (inch.)] Presser Foot Auto Manual Auto Manual Buttonhole stitch 42 Horizontal buttonholes on thin and mediumweight fabrics 5.0 (3/16) 3.0–5.0 (1/8–3/16) 0.4 (1/64) 0.2–1.0 (1/64–1/16) A 43 Horizontal buttonholes on areas that are subject to strain 5.0 (3/16) 3.0–5.0 (1/8–3/16) 0.4 (1/64) 0.2–1.0 (1/64–1/16) 44 Horizontal buttonholes on thick fabrics 5.0 (3/16) 3.0–5.0 (1/8–3/16) 0.4 (1/64) 0.2–1.0 (1/64–1/16) 45 Buttonholes with bar tacks on both ends for stabilized fabrics 5.0 (3/16) 3.0–5.0 (1/8–3/16) 0.4 (1/64) 0.2–1.0 (1/64–1/16) 46 Buttonholes for stretch or knit fabrics 6.0 (15/64) 3.0–6.0 (1/8–15/64) 1.0 (1/16) 0.5–2.0 (1/32–1/16) 47 Buttonholes for stretch fabrics 6.0 (15/64) 3.0–6.0 (1/8–15/64) 1.5 (1/16) 1.0–3.0 (1/16–1/8) 48 Bound buttonholes 5.0 (3/16) 0.0–6.0 (0–15/64) 2.0 (1/16) 0.2–4.0 (1/64–3/16) 49 Keyhole buttonholes for thick or plush fabrics 7.0 (1/4) 3.0–7.0 (1/8–1/4) 0.5 (1/32) 0.3–1.0 (1/64–1/16) 50 Keyhole buttonholes for mediumweight and thick fabrics 7.0 (1/4) 3.0–7.0 (1/8–1/4) 0.5 (1/32) 0.3–1.0 (1/64–1/16) 51 Horizontal buttonhole for thick or plush fabrics 7.0 (1/4) 3.0–7.0 (1/8–1/4) 0.5 (1/32) 0.3–1.0 (1/64–1/16) Button- sewing stitch 55 Button sewing 3.5 (1/8) 2.5–4.5 (3/32–3/16) – – M 76 S3_brotherE.book Page 77 Wednesday, February 12, 2003 11:49 AM Buttonhole sewing T...